The upper Methow Valley |
The stream |
A beautiful native Methow Basin Westslope Cutthroat |
A beautiful, but invasive Brook Trout |
The big Cutthroat of the day |
The canyon on the way out |
Washington truly is a beautiful state! |
All about fly fishing for native salmonids
The upper Methow Valley |
The stream |
A beautiful native Methow Basin Westslope Cutthroat |
A beautiful, but invasive Brook Trout |
The big Cutthroat of the day |
The canyon on the way out |
Washington truly is a beautiful state! |
One question I often get about Cutthroat Trout has to do with how many species/ subspecies there are. For someone that is trying to catch all of the varieties of Cutthroat, this is an important consideration as it sets the basis of overall quest and planning excursions. What I hope to do here is break down what I see as the the three classification systems that are commonly used. I am going to label these as the Behnke System, the Trotter System and the Western Native Trout Challenge System - these are my names for them and do not represent official names.
How many types of Cutthroat are there? That depends who you ask... |
1. The first system that I will cover is the Behnke System as it is the oldest and perhaps the most broadly accepted of the classification systems. This classification was developed by Robert Behnke, who used traditional taxonomic and meristic (scale counts, fin rays, gill rakers, chromosomes etc.) characteristics to classify trout. This system is covered in the 2002 essential book Trout and Salmon of North America as well as the excellent 2008 book Cutthroat: Native Trout of the West and breaks Cutthroat Trout (a single species) into four major lineages (Coastal, Westslope, Yellowstone and Lahontan). Within these lineages, the Yellowstone is considered to have 6 additional minor subspecies and the Lahontan has 4 additional minor subspecies for a total of 14 subspecies of Cutthroat Trout. This is the classification that I once used for my website before transitioning to the Trotter System covered next.
Behnke Classification: (Italics for "minor" subspecies)
2. The Trotter System is based on genetics and is covered in the 2018 book Cutthroat Trout - Evolutionary Biology and Taxonomy. This book has multiple contributing authors from the scientific community and is very dense on the science. Based on the latest genetics, it lays out the reasoning for breaking Cutthroat Trout into four species: Coastal, Westslope, Lahontan and Rocky Mountain Cutthroat similar to the major subspecies of the Behnke system. These fish are recognized as distinct species as major subspecies are not recognized as a valid unit for classifying animals under current taxonomic guidelines. With the exception of Coastal Cutthroat, each of these species has its own subspecies for a total of 25 subspecies of Cutthroat Trout.
There are a number of differences in this system with the most noticeable being the 9 subspecies of Westslope Cutthroat. These subspecies were not recognized by taxonomic or phenotypic traits, but their uniqueness is apparent at a genetic level.
The next change is the addition of the Quinn River Cutthroat to the Lahontan line, based on their genetic distinctiveness. Based on the Behnke system the Quinn River Cutthroat were typically consider to be part of the Humboldt Cutthroat line.
There is also major splitting among the Yellowstone/ Rocky Mountain Cutthroat line. First instead of Yellowstone Cutthroat, the Rio Grande Cutthroat provides the scientific name for this species as it is the first subspecies to receive a scientific name. Next, the Snake River Fine Spotted Cutthroat are no longer consider a unique subspecies due to their genetic similarity to Yellowstone Cutthroat (nearly indistinguishable). Additionally, Bear River Cutthroat are broken apart from the Bonneville Cutthroat. Genetics indicate the Bear River Cutthroat are more closely related to Yellowstone Cutthroat than to Bonneville Cutthroat, as the Bear River was once a tributary to the Snake River. Finally the Colorado River Cutthroat is broken into three subspecies, the Green River Cutthroat (also known as the Blue Lineage), Colorado River Cutthroat (aka Green Lineage) and the San Juan River Cutthroat.
A key element to note with this system is that while its based on the latest science, it has not yet been accepted by the American Fisheries Society and as such is subject to change as our scientific understanding improves. Also most of the "new" subspecies from this system are not yet recognized by management agencies which either follow the Behnke system or the Western Native Trout Challenge system.
Trotter Classification:
3. The Western Native Trout Challenge System is a classification system based on how the various fisheries management agencies classify Cutthroat Trout and does a considerable amount of lumping compared to the other two systems. For anglers trying to complete the Western Native Trout Challenge, this is the classification system they will be using. The classification based on this system is most similar to the Behnke system with a bit of additional lumping. The main lumping occurs with Lahontan Cutthroat, with only the Paiute Cutthroat being separated as a distinct subspecies. The Paiute Cutthroat were recently reintroduced to their native range, which is currently closed to fishing, so they are not eligible for the West Native Trout Challenge. This primarily has to do with the fact that the Endangered Species Act listing for Lahontan Cutthroat Trout lumped all of its subspecies (minus the Paiute) under it as a single subspecies. Additionally, like the Trotter system, the Snake River Fine Spotted Cutthroat is removed from this classification.
Western Native Trout Challenge Classification: (Italics for subspecies that are extinct or do not count towards the Western Native Trout Challenge)
So which list is the right one to follow? Scientifically, the Trotter system is the most robust and the one that I have chosen to used. However, ultimately which system an angler choses to follow is really a matter of opinion depending on the level of challenge that they are looking to pursue.
Day 4: Monday July 4th 2022: After a good night sleep, we got on the road early headed for the Santa Rosa Mountains in pursuit of the Quinn River Cutthroat Trout. For years the Quinn River Cutthroat had been either lumped in with Humboldt or Lahontan Cutthroat, but recent genetics work had indicated that they are distinct enough to warrant subspecies status. Back in September of 2019, I had made a trip down to the Santa Rosa Mountains to look for Quinn River Cutthroat only to be foiled by a freak snowstorm that made access to the small streams draining the mountains impossible. This time it was a beautiful bluebird day and the weather couldn’t have been further from that first trip.
Turning off the highway and heading for the Mountains, we hit another genuinely awful dusty and deeply rutted dirt road, that was swarming with 3” Mormon Crickets. Luckily my car was up to another rough road and we made it to the trailhead at the mouth of the canyon with no issues. The first thing that struck me when we got out of the car was the noise, which was a cacophony of thousands of Crickets and Cicadas, both of which appeared to be having population booms. We quickly geared up and hit the trail headed for a waterfall, that served as a barrier to nonnative Brook Trout, blocking them from the native Quinn River Cutthroat upstream. As we followed the canyon towards the falls, the creek remained completely obscured by an impenetrable wall of vegetation, somehow the thickest of any of the creeks we had visited so far. Mormon Crickets were everywhere, making so much noise that I was worried we might stumble upon a rattlesnake without hearing it. With that very real threat, we took the cautious slow and steady approach, but it didn't take long for us to reach the falls, above which we would hopefully find some native trout.
The falls |
So many Mormon Crickets! |
As we had to go by the falls to get to the upper valley, I figured we might as well stop on the way and see if any fish had washed over. The waterfall was beautiful, but the biggest thing of note was the smell. With the cricket boom, thousands had fallen into the stream and many of these had collected along the edges of the waterfall pool.
Lots of dead crickets |
An exceptionally fat little Quinn River Cutthroat |
The upper valley... No fish... |
Time to hit the road again |
After leaving the stream in the Santa Rosa range, we started the last leg of our trip. It was a five hour drive to our next stream in the upper John Day drainage, which felt particularly long after so many miles on the road. After several days driving through sage brush desert, coming over a rise just north of Burns Oregon and find ourselves in driving through towering pine trees signally our exit from the interal desert basins.
We reached the upper John Day watershed around 5pm, opting for fishing over dinner. Like our attept to catch the Humboldt Cutthroat the previous day, the John Day Westslope Cutthroat was not a new fish for me, having caught one in 2019. However, I prefer to represent as many fish as possible on my website to show phenotypic diversity, so we were back to see if we could find more this time. Acting on a tip from Steve we were targeting a very small headwater stream, which was report to only hold Cutthroat. Arriving at the stream it looked like we could jump across it in most places and flowed through a meadow upstream of the road and spruce and fir forest downstream of the road. I decided to start downstream of the road, while Derek went upstream. Upon reaching the waters edge, I was immediately met with a good sign, as handful of trout were clearly visible holding in the middle of the pool below the culvert. My first cast wasn't ideal, with my flies making the water but my line hanging up on a branch over the stream. However, the drift was good and the largest of trout made a slow and deliberate rise to my dry fly. The hookset pulled my line free of the branch and even with my 1wt I was quickly able to pull the trout away from the others and land it in the tailout of the pool. Given the challenges provided by the rest of the trip, this was a very welcome change..
A beautiful darkly colored John Day Westslope Cutthroat |
While the light wasn't ideal at this point of the day, I managed to get a few decent photos then turned the fish loose. The photography time allowed the hole to rest and a few more casts resulted in another fish, this time on my dropper. After I hooked a third, which I lost, effectively putting off the rest of the hole. I worked downstream a ways hooking and losing a few more fish, but also finding the stream to be quite brushy, prompting me to head upstream and see how Derek was doing.
The creek above the road was much more open than downstream and Derek was also getting into cutthroat, with every likely and many of the unlikely lies holding trout. We worked the productive little stream for a couple of hours catching a number of Cutthroat before the need to set up camp and make dinner finally pulled us away.
Derek working the stream for Cutthroat |
Another Westslope Cutthroat |
With our mission for the day complete and having just experienced the best fishing of the entire trip, we settled into camp for the evening, ready to turn our path towards home the next day.
Day 5: Tuesday July 5th 2022: We awoke early on the last day of our trip, although we had a long ways to go still with a roughly eight hour drive for me to reach home, we didn't feel the need to rush. As such, we took our time breaking down camp, enjoying a slower pace before hitting the road. While we had no directed plans to fish on the way back, we found ourselves driving along a beautiful little meadow stream that was too tempting to pass by and decided we could spare a few minutes to wet a fly.
Our last stop on the trip |
A small but beautiful Columbia Basin Redband Trout |
The rest of the drive was as rather uneventful, putting back at Derek's house around lunchtime and myself home in time for dinner. This was one of the faster paced and more challenging trips that I have been on, but with with use managing to catching five varieties of native trout and three additional nonnatives, it certainly was a success. Likely this will be my only major out of state native trout road trip this year, pushing my thoughts towards next years plans of a trip to Colorado to round out my remaining Cutthroat subspecies.
Day 3: Sunday July 3rd 2022: After an extremely long, and overall successful first day of angling, we were a bit more sluggish breaking camp than I would have liked. The reason that I was anxious to get on the road again was that we had a lot of ground to cover in a single day, fishing two streams before ending up in Winnemucca, NV for the night. While originally I had just planned on fishing a single stream Steve had told me about a stream with Tiger Trout. Tiger Trout are a bit of a frankenfish, being a hybrid cross between Brook Trout and Brown Trout and as I had never caught one I was intrigued enough to check the creek out.
Although we were still slightly behind schedule we made good timing getting to the stream and arrived by mid morning. The creek was similar in size to the Bonneville Cutthroat stream from the day before, but flowed through a tunnel of Willow in the midst of the treeless sage brush desert.
While we were rigging up for the day, a local indicated two things that didn’t bode well in my opinion. First was that otters and anglers had been very effective at harvesting fish from the creek, so hold overs would be few and far between. The second was that the creek had just been stocked for the 4th of July weekend. While in theory this meant more fish, the influx of fish was likely to disrupt the existing fish community and the new stockers would be unlikely to be used to natural prey sources. So normal tactics might not be very effective.
The Tiger Trout stream |
While the stream looked like it should be quite productive, with lush aquatic vegetation good holes and a few beaver ponds, few of the likely lies showed any sign of fish. When I did manage to spot some fish they showed very little interest in flies.
Streamside cacti |
I figure that sometimes persistence pays off and as I continued working upstream I did manage to get some takes but just couldn’t get a solid hookup with any of the fish. Most of these fish were on either dries stripped under the surface or nymphs jigged in the deep holes. It wasn’t until I found a fishy looking undercut back that I finally got a solid grab on my dropper. It was a small fish and I quickly was able to net my first Tiger Trout.
My first Tiger Trout |
I continued fishing upstream and didn’t find any additional trout, but when I met up with Derek he had managed to catch one hard won Rainbow Trout.
Derek's Rainbow Trout |
While successful, it had taken far longer for us to find fish at this stream than planned and had eaten into our time hunting for our main target of the day, the Humboldt Cutthroat significantly. It was fun to catch a new type of trout, but I couldn’t help thinking how amazing this Creek could have been if it still held the native Humboldt Cutthroat that once swam its waters. As those native Humboldts were long since gone and it was again time to hit the road and hopefully we would be able to find Humboldts in our next stream.
A lone Pronghorn Antelope on our way to the next stream |
After a few more hours on the road, with afternoon wearing on and storm clouds building on the horizon, we arrived at our second stream. I had fished this stream way back in 2006 and managed to catch a few Humboldt on that trip so I hoped trip to it would be just as successful.
I decided to head further upstream on this trip in hopes of more productive water. On my last trip I had noticed the damage the lower stream had endured from poor grazing practices and apparently the upper watershed had experienced the same damage. The stream was incised into a small a 10 foot deep trench and to make matters worse, it appeared that a fire had torn through the upper watershed recently, leaving little in the way of large vegetation.
The upper reaches of the Humboldt Cutthroat stream |
We found a spot where we could reach the stream and decided that Derek would go upstream while I went downstream. Upon reaching the of the incised canyon, it was clear that there at least had been an attempt at improving the habitat as there were numerous beaver dam analogues added to the stream. These are stakes driven into the stream bed in the hopes of attracting beavers to use them as anchor for their dams. As the beavers build their dams behind the analogues they act as sediment traps and slowly build up stream channel reversing the process of incising. Unfortunately, the fire in the upper watershed had wiped out all of the larger vegetation that beavers need to feed on and as such the intended purpose of the analogues had gone unfulfilled. While they didn't live up to their full potential, the analogues did act as decent sediment traps and instead of flowing from pool to pool, the creek flowed from one knee deep swath of quicksand after another making wading extremely very difficult. This also meant an almost complete lack of suitable habitat for trout and I only managed to hook one smaller Cutthroat that unfortunately was able to shake loose.
The deeply incised stream channel |
With the challenging and less than fruitful conditions on the upper part of the creek, Derek and I decided to head for the lower end of the watershed, where I had fished before. We were hoping that the creek in the lower reaches would be slightly larger and more productive than upstream and with luck we might find a few beaver ponds. As it turned out beaver ponds proved to be our biggest problem on the lower creek, as upon reaching the valley floor we discovered that since 2006 beavers had flooded the entire lower valley.
A beaver pond in the lower watershed |
Often beaver ponds are one of the best places to find trout on small streams, but this particular scenario was not one of those cases. The water was extremely murky and there was almost no casting room due to extremely thick vegetation growth. I was able to wade into the muck a ways and saw many fry in the 2" range (a good sign for the viability of the population), but 45 minutes of casting didn't even result in a strike. With the beaver ponds not yield results, I tried to find some flowing water, but my attempts to find a way threw the overgrown brush all proved unsuccessful. I rarely have failed to catch a native trout on a stream that I know to harbor them, but I had to accept that you can't win them all. As such with thickening storm clouds rolling in and the day already growing late, I linked back up with Derek who had just as much success as I did and we hit the road again, headed for Winnemucca, NV and some much needed rest. With one trout a piece and neither of them natives, this had been one of the rougher days of trout fishing I have had in a long while. Fortunately, I had caught Humboldt Cutthroat before and I just had to hope that the Quinn River Cutthroat I was after the next day would be far more eager.
Day 1: Friday July 1st 2022: This year I wasn't sure whether I would be able to pull of a road trip for native trout. While great, changing jobs also meant entering summer without much in the way of vacation time. However, I when I looked at my schedule I realized I could pull away for a native trout adventure over the long 4th of July weekend and better yet my cousin Derek was also able to join. While I went after the Westslope Cutthroat subspecies last year, this year I decided to focus my attention on the Lahontan subspecies as well as Bonneville Cutthroat. However, with a day less to work with than last year's trip, this trip was packed very densely with little room for error or tough to find trout.
The disadvantage of the 4th weekend as always is that it seems like everyone else is trying to get out of town on adventures as well. Even with taking a half day to leave early, the traffic getting out of the Puget and over the Cascade Mountains was horrible. Luckily leaving early gave me enough of a buffer that I was able to arrive at Derek’s place in the Tri Cities right as he got home from work. This got us back on the road quickly and the traffic on our second leg to Boise was not bad at all and we arrived at our hotel 10pm to rest up before hitting road in the morning.
Off to a slow start |
Day 2: Saturday July 2nd 2022: As often happens with the prospect of new native trout on the horizon, I had trouble sleeping. As such I was up at 3:30AM well before my alarm and decided to just go ahead and get ready for the day. This put us on the road again by 4:30AM and on our way to Utah and our first trout of the trip. The first trout we were targeting was the Pilot Peak strain of the Lahontan Cutthroat Trout. These Pilot Peak fish are unique as they were the last of the original Pyramid Lake Lahontan Cutthroat Trout known for being the largest Cutthroat Trout in the world. These fish had been stocked in the Pilot Peak range long ago and forgotten about until they were rediscovered and later reintroduced back into Pyramid Lake. With these fish being so special I had always wanted a chance to visit the place where they had been found and see if I could catch and photograph one.
The first challenge with these Pilot Peak Lahontan Cutthroat was just getting to them. Part one was 40 miles of dirt road, with the last couple miles to the creek being exceptionally rough and pushing my RAV 4 to its limit. Given how rough the road was, I didn't want to push my car past its limit so we decided to walk the last bit into the stream. First we had to find flowing water.
The start of the long walk into the mountains |
Ready for the start of our native trout adventure |
Derek and I worked through a stretch of the stream that I had been told held a decent number of Cutthroat with not so much as a sign of fish. After that, we decided to split up and I went another half mile upstream while Derek worked the stream below. After covering a good stretch of stream with not so much of a sign of fish and the day starting to wear on, I decided to head back downstream and see if Derek had any luck.
A rare piece of holding water on the stream |
As it turned out when I found Derek, he had just managed to catch a beautiful 12” Cutthroat that was holding in a small pool. Apparently he had spotted the the fish and cast to it, only to get his fly getting stuck in a spiderweb and have to fish jump out of the water to try to grab it. While the fish didn't get the fly on that cast, Derek was able break the spider web, land the fly on the water and managed to get the fish to eat and caught it.
Derek's big fish - a Pilot Peak (Pyramid Lake) Strain Lahontan Cutthroat |
After Derek caught his fish, I redoubled my efforts but despite covering another 1/2 mile of the creek that only thing that I was able get the attention of was a small snake that spooked and swam across the creek on one of my casts. Given that we had a long drive to our next stream and that there was no sign of any additional fish, it was time to hit the road.
Looking out over the Bonneville salt flats |
Part of our need to get a move on was that we were going to meet up with my friend and fellow native trout enthusiast Steve MacMillan from Nevada, at the next stream and we still had a very long drive down to Bonneville Cutthroat country on the eastern edge of the Bonneville Basin. As with the Pilot Peak stream, we were in for another long stretch of dirt roads to get to our destination. However, we made surprisingly good time and ended up beating Steve by about an hour, although I suspect that the Pacific/ Mountain time zone difference was lost in translation and at play.
Miles and miles of dirt road |
Once linking up with Steve, we made for the Mountains, which were a monolith of granite rising several thousand feet out of the salt flats. The country was a mix alpine and desert, with prickly pear, pine, birch, juniper and willows. As is typically of this thirsty country, we found a very small creek threading through a tunnel of vegetation. Luckily the creek was much larger then the Pilot Peak stream and finding good holding water didn't take long. I decided to start out with my trusty Royal PMX and Lighting Bug dropper setup and started working the water. It didn't take long to find a Cutthroat and I was finally on the board with another subspecies of Cutthroat off my list. Steve and Derek also got their fish in short order and we each started working the stream for additional fish.
A small Bonneville Cutthroat Trout |
While it didn't take long to find my first fish, the stream was certainly a challenge due to the vegetation and additional fish were hard earned. However, I managed to land two more and lost a number of others over the course of a couple hours before Steve had to head back home.
The valley along the stream |
After Steve headed off, Derek and I decided to hike up the road and explore further upstream. Upon hit the water, I lucked into a series of pools that were relatively open and easy to reach. This was where I struck pay dirt. As I approached the first hole I spotted a couple of trout holding just in front of a root wad. A well placed bow and arrow cast resulted in an immediate rise and a quickly landed fish. The next fish took a bit more work and rose to the fly 6 times before I finally managed to hook up and bring it to hand.
A beautiful Bonneville Cutthroat Trout |
Continuing upstream each pool held several more Cutthroat, which were more than eager to rise to a dry fly and did so with reckless abandon. The topmost pool looked to be the deepest and most likely to hold a bigger fish. Sure enough as I approach, I spotted a nice Cutthroat and several small ones holding in the pool. A well placed cast got the attention of the big fish first and I managed to hook it. With limited room to run, I was able to bring the beautiful 11” Cutthroat to the net in short order.
A productive stretch of the stream |
A beautiful Bonneville Cutthroat to end the day on |